New Routes in Wadi Rum (Jordan), 2002

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Bernd Arnold, Nov. 2000 and March 2002



South face of Abu Maileh Tower, in front of the East Face of Jebel Rum. 15 minutes from the resthouse. The little tower, the "Camel's Head" (30 meter), can be clearly distinguished when looking from the campground of the resthouse.


Character of the routes:

English: goats' cote or stables. Brilliant and hard short toprope routes on perfect rock. The belays (bolt) of the routes can be easily reached by scrambling up the right corner to gain the ledge 15 m above.


Routes from left to right:

1     Rammler,7b

2    Pfefferminztraum, 6c/7a, depending on your body length

3     Meck Meck, 6b, wall and corner

4     Ziegenstall, 6b+, crack and wall

4a     Ziegenstall direct, 6c

4b     Ziegenstall easy go, 6a+ (right hand variation)

5      Kamelkopf (Camel's Head), West face of the little tower, 5







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55 Steps to Hell

Bernd Arnold, Kurt Albert, Egbert Dozekal

1st ascent: 1/3/5 March 2002



Wadi Es Sid right hand side, huge face of a tower at the right side at the end of the canyon, about 1 hours walk from the Resthouse (20 min North along the road, 40 min West up the canyon)

Character of the route:

300 m, 9 pitches, 7b; the route is well protected with bolts and slings, including belay/abseil bolts. In addition, a full rack of friends and rocks is needed. 

  1. 40 m, 6c; corner

  2. 20 m, 6a; face

  3. 20 m, 6a; face

  4. 45 m, 6a+; face

  5. 30 m, 7a+; corner

  6. 45 m, 6c; corner

  7. 35 m, 7a; face

  8. 30 m, 7b; corner

  9. 25 m, 6a





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Camel Race

Egbert Dozekal, Christophe Bignon, Christine Preis, Anne Vandercam

Date of 1st ascent: 31.01.2000



south-west facing side of Um Hashad Canyon, which lies exactly 1.5 km north of South Barrah Canyon, also running from south-east to north-west direction;

Camel Race” is on the south-west facing blank wall (about 80 m high) with a left facing diedre with an obvious finger-crack;

the route takes the slabs and cracks to the start of the finger-crack, which is followed to its end to reach a sort of platform


Character of the route:

beautiful crack-climbing on excellent rock with good protection


Pitch 1, 25 m, 6a,        slabs/cracks to start of the finger-crack, belay on 2 bolts

Pitch 2, 25 m, 6b,        finger-crack, small rocks and friends (+ friend 3 ½ ), belay/abseil point on 2 bolts






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Mafish Mushkila

Bernd Arnold, Egbert Dozekal

1st ascent: 19 Feb. 2002



south-west facing side of Um Hashad Canyon, which lies exactly 1.5 km north of South Barrah Canyon, also running from south-east to north-west direction (like "Camel Race")

Mafish Mushkila is on the south-west facing blank wall, on the right hand side of "Camel Race".


Character of the route:

a perfect "sports climb", 40 m, 6c, 8 bolts; belay/abseil point on 2 bolts






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Dance on Slings

Egbert Dozekal, Christophe Bignon, Christine Preis, Anne Vandercam

Date of 1st ascent: 01.02.2000


huge pocketed wall on the right side of the south-west facing side of South Barrah Canyon;

to the left of the wall is a huge diedre with the route R 218 A “Schoarf Unterwegs”, on the very left side of the wall is a bolt with a sling, 2 m above the terrace, belonging to R 218 B “Hala Hala”

“Dance on Slings” takes the start of “Hala Hala”, but then heads to the centre of the wall climbing this up to the big break 80 m above, following the good dark rock and avoiding the fragile yellow one


Character of the route:

exposed and steep wall-climbing on generally good rock with the occasional fragile yellow parts; belays and abseil point are in place and bomb-proof; for protection only slings and one friend necessary


Pitch 1, 25 m, 6a,        protect belayer  with two friends 3 in horizontal crack below roof; start
                 below bolt,  overhang 6a (AO),free 6c; 3 slings in place

Pitch 2, 15 m, 6a+,     4 slings in place (plus one friend 2 ½  possible)

Pitch 3, 25 m, 6a,        5 slings in place (plus 4 additional slings possible)


dance photo photo photo photo


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Caught in the Desert or The Flat Tyre

Egbert Dozekal, Christine Preis

Date of 1st ascent: 08.02.2000 (1st pitch) and
02.02.2201 (to top, possibly 1st ascent of the dome)



east-facing side of the mountain, which lies eastwards, next and parallel to Al Maghrar 1232 Dome and immediately north of Al Maghrar 1260 Dome; the east side of this mountain displays in the centre a huge smooth black wall, which has a big diedre on the left (south) end with a crack-line running to the top, and further left to this a wide chimney also running to the top

“Caught in the Desert” or “The Flat Tyre” follows the finger-crack in the obvious north-facing diedre.


Character of the route:

steep crack-climbing on good rock (except for the 2nd pitch) with solid protection in an extremely beautiful part of the desert.


caughtin photo photo-flat-tyre2h.jpg (3330 Byte)


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The Climber's Restaurant

Bernd Arnold, Atieq Auda, Martina Beitz, Tanjeff Bourget, Egbert Dozekal, Oliver Graf, Farid Islami, Christine Preis

Date of 1st ascent: 22.01.2002



Wadi Al Maghrar area; the local climbing guide Atieq Auda knows the exact location. Broad wall (100 m wide, 100 m high, with about 50 m high black pocketed rock), east facing, in a canyon


Character of the routes:

7 different one pitch routes, well protected by bolts and slings. Each route has an abseil anchor.


The routes from left to right:

  1. Happy Birthday, 15 m, 6c/7a, 4 bolts, 1 sling; face and edge

  2. Für Geniesser, 25 m, 5, 1 sling; corner or wall and crack

  3. Fliegender Perser, 25 m, 6a, 9 bolts, 2 belay bolts; face

  4. Atieq's Route, 20 m, 5-, 5 slings, 1 belay sling; wall of the tower

  5. Reflektion, 25 m, 4+, 7 slings, 1 belay sling; pocketed wall

  6. Profitratte, 20 m, 5, 5 slings, 1 belay sling; pocketed wall

  7. Abseiluebung, 25 m, 4, 1 belay sling; wall and slab


topo Jor-02-0119-z Jor-02-0120-z Jor-02-0143-z Jor-02-0155-z

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